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Japanese Aircraft of World War II 1937-1945 by Thomas Newdick    I must admit I have a fetish for military aircraft....

Japanese Aircraft of World War II 1937-1945 by Thomas Newdick Japanese Aircraft of World War II 1937-1945 by Thomas Newdick

For your Wargamer, Toy soldier collector, MiniFig collector, military history nut. Reviews, interviews, Model Making, AARs and books!

by




 I must admit I have a fetish for military aircraft. I have bought every book I could on them, and I have also purchased almost every computer simulation of them I could. For some reason my fancy is tickled, especially by Axis aircraft of WWII. Mustangs were war winners and Spitfires are beautiful in a way, but give me a Macchi or a Nakajima and my eyes sort of glaze over. So I have more than my share of book compendiums like this one, but not like this one. Everyone of the compendiums of a certain war or country that I have purchased or read has left me a bit dry. Oh sure, they give you the speed, and altitude etc. of the plane, or in actuality one of the plane's variants. What they don't show you is what is in this handy volume of Japanese planes.

 The books several parts are divided as follows:

Land-based Bombers and Reconnaissance Aircraft

Land-based Fighters

Carrier Aircraft

Flying Boats and Floatplanes

Rocket and Jet-powered Aircraft

 It ends up with a 'Specifications and Data'  chapter which is split into these categories:

Types and Variants: Numbers built

Allied Reporting Names for Japanese Aircraft

Naming and Number System

Japanese Navy Air Service Short Designation System

Selected Technical drawings

 
 This book only shows planes that actually flew, and not planes that were still on the drawing board or in another development phase. There are six planes that are in the 'Technical Drawings'. They are as follows: Dinah, Tony, Zeke, Betty, Oscar, and a Frank. For those who do not know, boys' names were given by the Allies to Japanese fighters, and girls' names were given to their bombers. Notice there is no 'Zero'. The Mitsubishi A6M Reisen was actually called a Zeke by the Allies, and not a Zero. The 'Zero' came from the fact that it started its career in the year 2000 of the Japanese calendar. For the types and their variants there are listings for how many airframes were built no matter how few. The book also explains that there was a separate Army and Navy Air Force in Japan at the time. To further confuse the issue some Japanese naval Aircraft were only land based and not capable of carrier operations.

 The book itself is only 128 pages long, but it is packed with facts and figures about all of the Japanese aircraft. As a handy reference on Japanese warplanes, this cannot be beat. The fact that the specifications of all the major variants are given is more than worth the price. A note to the reader: these specifications are almost all from Japanese sources. When several fighters were tested in the U.S. during and after the war, they were given high octane fuel just like our own planes. The Japanese had only a very limited supply of this at the beginning of the war, and were never able to replace it. So the airplanes tested had higher speeds during our testing than would show on Japanese specifications. The book also goes into, in a limited way, some of the air munitions that were carried by these planes. 

 All in all, it is the best small volume of its kind that I have read, with more than enough information for the casual reader or plane aficionado. Hopefully the author is working on a similar book for Italian World War II planes.

  I couldn't resist adding this picture.


This is a Nakajima Ki-44 'Shoki' or 'Tojo'



Robert


Book: Japanese Aircraft of World War II
Author: Thomas Newdick
Publisher: Amber Books
Distributor: Casemate publishers
 



Warbirds: Blitzkrieg Review   Reviewing this game has been a learning experience on my part. It is a print and play game that also...

Warbirds Blitzkrieg by Warbirds Game System Review Warbirds Blitzkrieg by Warbirds Game System Review

For your Wargamer, Toy soldier collector, MiniFig collector, military history nut. Reviews, interviews, Model Making, AARs and books!

 


Reviewing this game has been a learning experience on my part. It is a print and play game that also comes with a Vassal module built in. I had only dipped my toe at times down through the years into Vassal, so for this game I had to get into it down to the nuts and bolts. This game goes back to an earlier age where computers and all our new fangled doodads didn't exist. With all of our new games and plane simulations etc. why do we need to go back to a board game like this? The reason board games of any type are still around, and not only that are thriving right now is because of the game play. You will see during this review that this game is intricate, but fun, and that as a simulation of early WWII war in the air it works. You will have to read (shudder) and not just click a mouse. The game is fairly long on rules, but for gamer's who have played ASL or the original it is nowhere near as bad/good depending on your taste, and masochistic tendencies.

 
The game is based on what a pilot could do in in 4.1 seconds of real time. The length and breadth of the rules are because of the physical constraints of using one dimensional maps etc. to simulate everything a plane could do in three dimensions. In order to recreate dogfighting and ground pounding the player has to understand how the rules allow him to not only fly loops, but also do an Immelmann. The index of the rules takes up four pages (there are also a lot of optional rules to immersive yourself further). This is not to scare you off, but just to make sure you understand what you are buying into. The rules are sixty-one pages long, but it does have a lot of illustrations. After that there comes more rules for playing by PBEM, and then reference material, and then an alphabetical index. With the rules in PDF form it is very easy to have them open on a tablet or phone. So you won't have to print them off unless you want to. They are clearly written without ambiguities to argue over. The game rules are intuitive so without to much checking you will be up and flying and fighting in no time.

The game comes with twenty-four maps, and thirty three scenarios. The print and play version has very nicely done graphics, and the Vassal components are top notch.


The manual is well setup to learn all of the different things you need to know in an ABC method. The game is actual in two parts, there is a tactical part, and also an operational one. The tactical part is you flying your plane(s) over the different mapboards. The operational part is one where you are a flight commander, and are responsible for carrying out different missions. The operations part of the game has its own separate rule book.

Flight Ops Chart
 
Background on Air Warfare
 
The written material includes designers notes, and tons of background on air warfare.

 The rules are full of illustrations to show how they are to be utilized in the game.

Counters (Counters and Maps come in US and UK sizes)
 
More Counters
 
BF109E Data Card
 
The plane charts are a marvel all by themselves. By studying them you really get the 'feel' for the different planes.
 
Dornier Data Card
 
Dornier Data Card
 
 What you get for the price of $30.00 is pretty amazing. The fact that once you have the rules down they can be used in any of the other games in the series from WWI to the present is a tribute to how well the rules actually convey air warfare. I have started following along as some players use the PBEM system with the Vassal module. It seems to work pretty seamlessly.


 The games system started out as just a WWII addon for another flying game. The idea is just about twenty years old. Steve Pancrazio is the brain behind the games. Mr. Pancrazio has a background in engineering and aviation. He started playing board wargames in 1974, Avalon Hills 'Luftwaffe' to be exact. He decided to self publish his games in 2014, and the first one is called 'Canvas Falcons' and it has a good following on boardgamegeek etc. As I stated earlier, he was trying, and succeeded, in developing a flight game that could be used in different eras without having to learn a whole new set of rules for each new era. If you look at the rules for 'Blitzkrieg', and compare them to 'Canvas Falcons' you will not see too many differences. The next release will be 'The Battle of Britain' for which he is finishing the naval rules right now. After that it is on to 'Forgotten Wars', and then he will add a Zeppelin module for 'Canvas Falcons'. As a teaser there are aircraft data cards on the website for 'Forgotten Wars' one is a Mig-15 and the other an F-86.
 
  For those of you who want a physical copy there is the print-n-play version, which comes with the game. Their are more than a few good websites that can teach you how to make your own counters and maps, along with instructional videos.

 There is so much here that I really wanted to show, but cannot because of only having so much space.
 
Following are some shots from the Vassal version:




 


 
Robert
 
Company: Warbirds game System
Designer: Steve Pancrazio

Review of Tamiya 1/35 scale Sdkfz 251/1 Ausf D           After a long 30 year hiatus from building scale model kits I deci...

Review of Tamiya 1/35 scale Sdkfz 251/1 Ausf D Review of Tamiya 1/35 scale Sdkfz 251/1 Ausf D

For your Wargamer, Toy soldier collector, MiniFig collector, military history nut. Reviews, interviews, Model Making, AARs and books!

Review of Tamiya 1/35 scale Sdkfz 251/1 Ausf D
 
 
 
 

 
After a long 30 year hiatus from building scale model kits I decided to begin the hobby again. This is my fifth build in six months and I have chosen a great kit from Tamiya, the Sdkfz 251/1 Ausf D for my review and build. (Hannoversche Maschinenbau AG) a German producer of steam locomotives, tractors, trucks and military vehicles in Hannover, Germany. The single most important and iconic military vehicle to be designed and built by Hanomag during World War II was the SDKFZ 251 half-track (commonly called simply "the Hanomag") with a total production numbering just over 15,000.

 Built to protect and transport the mechanized infantry, it was by far the most common German armoured troop-carrying vehicle of World War II, and a direct precursor to the APC's of today. In comparison to the most common Allied half-track of the war, the M3, the Sd.KFz 251 was slower and lower-powered but with thicker, sloping side armor that provided better protection; the flat-sided M3 was at one point panned as the "Purple Heart Box" for being unable to stop 7.92mm bullets at close range, while the Hanomag's sloping side armor deflected the .30-caliber bullets of the Allies with no similar issue.

 
 
  The kit was released in 1995 and retails for around $25 USD. Upon opening the box,the parts are the usual Tamiya dark yellow color. The kit includes 4 decently moulded figures and many extra's such as panzerschrek, grenades, grenade boxes and weapons. Very crisp moulding with no need to sand off left over seams from most of the parts.Main exception is small circle moulds which need to be sanded off the doors. Instructions are straight forward beginning with the torsion bar to attach to lower hull. I usually read the instructions fully and do not always follow them exactly in order especially with this kit as an interior fighting compartment is included and that has to be assembled and painted first before the upper hull can be attached.


I begin by cutting the roadwheels from the sprue,sanding where needed and painting them both sides with Tamiya XF 1 flat black paint. I plan on doing "hairspray" chipping. This consists of a base coat,in this case flat black. A lacquer coat,once dry a coat of any commercial hairspray, again allow to dry followed by the final coat. The final coat of Tamiya XF 60 dark yellow is masked with a drafting template purchased at the local art store to get  a perfect circle on the roadwheels, leaving the flat black color of the rubber on the roawheels. Once dry I will apply water and the hairspray undercoat has a chemical reaction to the water and I use an old toothbrush to chip away the final coat to reveal the black underneath.


Next work is done on the interior fighting compartment. Detailed dashboard is moulded nicely as well as steering wheel, gearshift, driver and passenger seats. The later style wooden slate type benches (early variants had leather seats)for the squad are here as well as rifle racks and stowage compartments. The floor is very nice detail a well.

 
 
 
 
 
Painting the interior I primed it with Testor's Model master flat oxide red. This is the primer color used on German vehicles before the primary coat was applied. The main coat for the interior was painted in Vallejo dark yellow with the exception of radios and seats. With the interior complete work on the upper hull began.

 
Upper hull glued on. I do not have a picture,but upper and lower hull were held together after glue applied with tape for a few hours. Next the interior was masked off and coat of dark yellow applied.
 
 
 Next a coat of Tamiya desert sand paint applied,followed by decals.
 
 
Roadwheels and tires put in place
 
 
I wanted to try something different for the weathering process.The great thing about building model kits today is the amount of advice,tips and tricks available online. Following these tips, decided to use oil paints for the weathering effects,rain streaks,dust,mud etc. Of course there are many products pre mixed and very costly. For the colors used I went with Naples yellow,raw umber,burnt sienna some white and black oil paints. Started with what is called a "filter" applied over the entire vehicle.This was Naples yellow thinned with enamel thinner. I do not follow ratio's,just mix until a thin consistency.This tones down the main coat. Next was Naples yellow again, blended into highlights to lighten area's of the vehicle most exposed to sunlight and natural light.
 
 



 

Next a pin wash was applied to small details such as bolts and weld seams,around storage boxes and locks. I used Vallejo black wash for this. Finally streaking effects were added with a mix of raw umber, burnt sienna and white.

 
Next chipping was applied with a small brush at various points on the vehicle where paint would chip off. Rule of thumb for me is if you can see the chips from 2 feet away,they are too much. Keep them in scale.
 
 

The final step was applying pigments to simulate dust effects. Again, instead of wasting money on a commercial product marketed specifically for model kits, I simply bought a set of oil pigments at the local art shop and made my own. I really enjoy doing things "old school".



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Overall a very decent kit, though some would say dated, it still holds it own with kits made today. Hope you like my build.Comments and critique's are welcome.












Chance to win Kursk - Battle at Prochorovka . PC game by Yobowargames         All you have to do is comment at bottom of this a...

Win Kursk PC Game!!! Win Kursk PC Game!!!

For your Wargamer, Toy soldier collector, MiniFig collector, military history nut. Reviews, interviews, Model Making, AARs and books!

Chance to win Kursk - Battle at Prochorovka. PC game by Yobowargames
 
 
 
 
All you have to do is comment at bottom of this article then go to TW Facebook page "like" page and post and also share and comment.
 
 
Closing date 19th April.
 
Good Luck!
 
Thanks to Yobowargames for the Steam serial donated for this comp. Also look out for a review shortly!


ESCAPE FROM COLDITZ When I was asked to review the new Anniversary edition of this classic game, originally published by Parker Brothers,...

ESCAPE FROM COLDITZ REVIEW ESCAPE FROM COLDITZ REVIEW

For your Wargamer, Toy soldier collector, MiniFig collector, military history nut. Reviews, interviews, Model Making, AARs and books!

ESCAPE FROM COLDITZ


When I was asked to review the new Anniversary edition of this classic game, originally published by Parker Brothers, I was delighted.  My first thoughts were to go back to the original artwork to see how things might have changed and, if you compare the picture below with the following one of the original box art, you'll see a curious mixture of past and present.

ESCAPE FROM COLDITZ
ANNIVERSARY EDITION





EARLY EDITION




Gone is the swastika to be replaced by the Prussian eagle - definitely a sign of changing times, attitudes and concerns about sensibilities.  Though Colditz Castle itself has become a much larger and more emphatic backdrop to the scene, I confess to preferring the smaller, but somehow more dominating image of the castle perched on its crag, white in the moonlight.  Yet the moon itself actually features in the new picture.  What are those POWs doing trying to escape on a night of a full moon?  Equally I prefer the focus of the older image on the two would-be escapers dominating the lower foreground in a much more dynamic pose.  Whereas, the anniversary edition's escapees are distinctly less impressive, especially with the startled expression of the left-hand figure and the overshadowing German guard. 

[It's worth noting that even early designs differed considerably.  For example, one UK Gibson's edition removed the swastika and any human figures, while retaining the castle on the hill and focusing on displaying the game contents.]

The attribution to the devisers of the game and particularly the reproduction of the signature of the key figure, P. R. Reid, are still there, but, not surprisingly, the mention of the T.V. series [which I watched assiduously at the time]  has been omitted.   Also left off the box is the reference to his two "memoir" books about his time and experiences in Colditz.  These are still worth your attention.

As a 75th Anniversary edition, the new production of the game by Osprey Games provides an excellent upgrade of what was a fairly ground breaking product for its time.  The typical larger, shallower box, easily prone to damage, has given way to a much more sturdy package.  Opening it, you're immediately struck even by the folded reverse side of the playing board, with its semi-embossed, golden title.



Opening the board out is a similar delight.  In essence very similar to the original board, the change from thick black lines to outline the walls and buildings of the castle to the 3D effect of the new depiction is one of the many small, but subtle changes.



Beneath the board, the rest of the contents are securely held in the substantial inserts, but the main packaging of the components has understandably been retained - a simulacrum of the Red Cross parcel that POWs received simply should not and has not been changed.


However, instead of mainly containing the 96 cards used in the game, inside are now the familiar, simple wooden pieces that represent the various nationalities of POWs and the German guards, along with a small sheet of Escape Attempt markers.



Two new small cardboard packages again featuring the Prussian eagle now contain the cards.   In essence these remain the same, including 16 Security cards, 47 Opportunity cards, 27 Escape Equipment cards, 5 Escape Kit cards and finally the 5 Do or Die cards [though those feature only if you choose to play with the original rules for the game.]



The Rule Booklet has been augmented by including alongside it a History Booklet as well.  The essential simplicity of the game can be judged both by the fact that the new Rule book encompasses both the original rules [4 pages] and the slightly extended new rules [11 pages] and in total these are still far fewer than the 30 pages of the history   



This historical material is largely drawn from Michael McNally's Colditz Oflag IV-C in Osprey's Fortress series.  As such, it is resplendent with coloured drawings and two very effective black and white period photos that substantially add to the atmosphere of the game. 



This picture especially of the inner courtyard captures the claustrophobic feeling of the towering walls, as well as the comparatively greater freedom the inmates of Colditz experienced at times.

This atmosphere is further augmented by the sketch that adorns the bottom of the game box.



As you should by now have realised, this anniversary edition is an all-embracing package, which celebrates and extends both the original game and the background that led to its original production.

As briefly commented on, you can be wholly nostalgic and simply play using the very same rules that I experienced for the first time back in the late 70s, a few years after its first publication. In reality, playing with the updated rules is virtually identical.  As the introduction spells out, the intentions have not been to use "decades of game development" to create a modern remake which would have led to "something entirely new."  Instead, I would describe what we have been given as a more thoroughly explained set of the original rules.  The ambiguities, uncertainties and inevitable arguments that accompanied playing the game have been ironed out.

There are only a few real differences.  The first is a form of game aid and that is the sets of Escape markers.  These help identify points in a POW pawn's escape route and simplify the task of remembering these points that are important for game play.  Then, the Do or Die cards are not used, unless you decide [as the option is given] to reintroduce them into the game!!  



The next small modification is that a set number of rounds [i.e. turns] is suggested for play.  Like the original, which suggested a set period of time to play the game, this can be adjusted at the players agreement.  In fact, one main element of Escape From Colditz from the very beginning has been its adaptability.  Perhaps because of its simplicity, the game has attracted many home-brewed variations and "house-rules."

What seems to me the strangest tweak is that each player is given a complete Escape Kit card to begin the game.  The logic of this seems slightly odd, as the major part of the game used to be spent in gathering the requisite four items [food, documents, disguise and a compass] to create an Escape Kit, as well as items such as wire cutters, rope, keys and passes to use on your route out of the castle.  Now a significant part of that task is done for you, though once again all is discretionary and you can dispense with this change as you wish.  


At top left, you can see the Personal Escape Kit card and the other cards show the range of other items you may need on the route to freedom.


It is also balanced by the fact that in the original game, once a player had created the Escape Kit, it remained with them and could be used by each subsequent POW attempting to escape.  Now you have to give it up after a successful POW escapes.  So, in a way it's just swings and roundabouts.  In the past, it took longer for your first POW to manage an escape and then quicker to get your next one out.  Now, it's quicker to get the first one out and slower to get the subsequent one out. 



A closer look at the interior of Colditz castle

Once again, the fluidity of this game's rules and intentions, both in its original and this most recent edition, can be seen in the winning conditions.  Originally, the winner was the player who first made two successful escapes and failing this being achieved in the time agreed by the players the winner was the player taking the role of the German Security Officer.  Today, it's still almost identical, we are told that the game ends either after 50 turns [not forgetting that, by player agreement, you can end the game after 40 rounds or any other number of turns chosen!] or after the first player makes two successful escapes.

This willingness to allow the players to negotiate their way to an agreed victory condition was a feature that often led to heated "discussions" at the start of a game and is something I've not experienced with any other game.  A corollary to this was the role of the Security Officer who was essentially expected to lose - the original rules even stated "it is virtually impossible to prevent a number of successful escapes."  So, for many players, it was often a sore point as to who would be willing to take on this  rather unforgiving task of trying your hardest to prevent any of the other players winning, knowing that you were unlikely to succeed and if you did would probably draw several players' wrath at having spent an afternoon or evening failing to win. 

Remember that the advent of cooperative games was still to come and this is a game of simple mechanics.  It seems fairly clear that the original designers had in mind that recreating the experience of being a POW of Colditz was the real appeal.  However, this aspect was very much down to the personalities of those you played the game with.  The "best" sessions I experienced of Escape from Colditz involved a humorous group who more or less invented unbeknown to themselves the T.V. series 'Allo, 'Allo - cartoon German accents and still upper lip British types abounded, with one person in particular keen to play the German Security Officer and bargain down the playing time and exploit every nuance of these simple rules in his favour.

To be honest, the basic nature of the game is rolling two dice, moving your pieces around to collect all the necessary cards to attempt an escape, sometimes cooperating with the other Escape Officers, sometimes not, all the while being repeatedly frustrated by the German Security Officer player's actions and card play.  At times it could be tedious, at times a hoot and, when those attempts to escape went down, some genuine tension and excitement was always generated, with all the POW players rooting for you, especially if it was one of those rarely successful, last gasp plays of a Do or Die card and the desperate die-rolling.


The inspiration behind Escape From Colditz


This new anniversary edition recreates all that with the addition of every physical item being just that bit better and that bit more colourful, without destroying the feel and flavour of the first production.  The guys at Osprey Games set out in their introduction all that they hoped to achieve for what they rightly call "this iconic game" and I've no hesitation in giving them full marks and congratulations.  You certainly did it!



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